Pitti Uomo 105 boasts a highly international line-up
The next Pitti Uomo unveils a stimulating line-up. For its winter session, to be held in Florence from Januray 9 to 12, 2024, the benchmark show for men's fashion is broadening its horizons more than ever. Just like its special guests from the four corners of the globe. Not to mention a host of international projects, such as the new Neudeutsch space dedicated to the new generation of German designers, and the partnership forged with Promas, featuring labels Ouest Paris and Valette Studio for the first time.
Nearly 835 exhibitors have registered for this 105th edition, dedicated to the Autumn/Winter 2024/25 collections, 43% of them from abroad, compared with 825 last June and 789 in January 2023. This is a significant increase, as evidenced by the 180 new applications to take part in the event, "all of which are of a very high quality," says event director Raffaello Napoleone, who is delighted with the confirmations from prestigious international buyers such as Galeries Lafayette, Saks, Bergdorf, Beymen and Beams.
As always, the show is organised around its five main sections, which are packed to the rafters with exhibitors. These include the much-coveted "Futuro Maschile" area, which is exploding in demand, according to the organisers, with its range of contemporary menswear, "Fantastic Classic" focusing on the evolution of classic style, "Dynamic Attitude" dedicated to the major sports and streetwear brands, "Superstyling", dedicated to avant-garde and niche brands, and "I Go Out", which highlights a more contemporary outdoor look with accessories for the outdoor lifestyle, such as the Japanese camping brand Snowpeak, also present via a bar in the Basso Fortress, hosting the event.
On the other hand, the "S Style" project, one of the show's most interesting initiatives, which since 2020 has showcased young, cutting-edge and eco-responsible international labels, has been suspended. While the new sections, such as PittiPets, devoted to the world of pets, and Vintage Hub Circular Fashion, designed to promote upcycling and the second-hand market, will return to this next edition.
The focus remains clearly international. With the exception of Italian Luca Magliano, the guests and special projects at this 105th edition of the show come from beyond the Alps. Like the other guest designer Steven Stokey-Daley from the UK, as well as Todd Snyder from the USA, designated "designer showcase", and Finland's Achilles Ion Gabriel, whose show is scheduled for January 11. On this occasion, the creative director of Camper will unveil the first collection of his new namesake ready-to-wear label, confirming Pitti Uomo's role as a launch pad for promising young brands.
In January, the show will also inaugurate "Neudeutsch", a project devoted to the German new wave, entrusted to talent and trend scout Julian Daynov. A buyer and fashion consultant for some of the biggest chains and brands, he has selected seventeen names from the German fashion scene, including established and emerging labels for both men and women (Avenir, Marke, Hernán, Oftt, Acceptance Letter Studio, FRNKOW, j'ai mal à la tête, OBS, Haderlump, New Tendency, International Citizen, Muti, equality perfumes, NOAM, Budde, Sebastian Herkner, Sarah Illenberger). The idea is to showcase the country's creative scene, going beyond the usual stereotype of monotonous, functional German fashion.
Another new feature this year is the emphasis on French brands, thanks to a closer partnership with Promas, the office for the promotion of French men's clothing, which, along with DEFI, supports around thirty French labels at Pitti Uomo each season. In January, the Florentine organisers will be inviting two promising young designers selected by them: Ouest Paris by designer Arthur Robert and Valette Studio by Pierre-François Valette. The partnership is due to be renewed in June.
The 105th edition is also home to "No Nation Fashion X Polimoda", an initiative promoted by the IOM, the United Nations International Organisation for Migration, to encourage the integration of migrants. Fourth-year students from the Florentine school Polimoda have been invited to create a collection of six silhouettes, which will be produced in Sarajevo involving both students and migrants, and presented at the show. "It's the first time we've done something like this. We really believe in it. The idea is to put these migrants in a position to produce, deliver and enter the market circuit," says Raffaello Napoleone.
At the same time, the international initiatives launched in recent years are continuing. Starting with Scandinavian Manifesto, now in its 8th year, in collaboration with the Danish trade fair Ciff x Revolver in Copenhagen. Japan is also present through two programmes. The J Quality Factory Brand Project, launched in January 2022, brings together the very best in Japanese craftsmanship. This time, twelve Japanese manufacturers have been certified by the J Quality label, up from five last June. And the Japanese Leather Association, with the support of the Japanese Ministry of Economy, Trade and Industry (METI), is bringing four leather accessory brands to Pitti.
Finally, "Detroitissimi", tested last June, returns with eight brands from Detroit and Michigan celebrating the creativity of this major American manufacturing district. They are B.May Bags, Boswell Millinery, Detroit Denim, Deviate, High's Adventure Gear, K.Walker Collective, Modern Athlete and Stormy Kromer.
In addition to these collective presentations, there are also special projects by a number of brands, particularly international ones, such as the American label Guess, which will be unveiling its new Guess Jeans line at Pitti Uomo, curated by Nicolai Marciano, while Dutch jeans manufacturer G-Star Raw, back in Florence, is planning an installation with Dutch artist-designer Marteen Baas. Also worth mentioning is the Velvet mi amor installation, entirely dedicated to velvet, created by designers Corinna Chiassai and her father Stefano.
The theme of this winter's show is "time", under the slogan "Pitti Time". The idea is to explore the meaning of time for fashion. Fashion sometimes speeds up the pace with countless capsule collections and collaborations, and sometimes takes its time, concentrating on emblematic pieces and more timeless luxury," sums up Giuliana Parabiago, marketing consultant for organiser Pitti Immagine.
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