Jacob Cohën Company SpA buys 100% stake in JC Industry

By

Elena Passeri

Translated by
Nicola Mira

Published
Nov 24, 2023

Jacob Cohën Company SpA, the Italian company that owns the eponymous men’s and women's luxury jeans label, has bought a 100% stake in JC Industry, the company that has been Jacob Cohën’s licensed producer and distributor since Fall/Winter 2021-22, and was originally set up as a joint venture with the Sinv group.

The acquisition will enable Jacob Cohën to run its manufacturing and retail business in-house. The label already operates headquarters and a showroom in Milan, monobrand stores in Milan, Paris, Saint-Tropez and Courchevel, and owns a specialist garment-making workshop.

“The acquisition of JC Industry is a further step in the development and expansion of Jacob Cohën. Managing the label's manufacturing and retail distribution in-house means being able to control the way our products are developed, and their market positioning. We would like to thank Sinv, and its president Francesco Dalla Rovere, for having been a valued partner as [Jacob Cohën’s] licensee for several seasons, and illimity Bank for their belief in our ambitious plans,” said Luca Roda, CEO of Jacob Cohën Company SpA.

“Having complete control over the quality of the Jacob Cohën collections means the brand is taking a further step into the world of luxury, in line with our identity which blends tradition with constant innovation and experimentation, and with our philosophy of always striving for unique, exceptionally high-quality products. Utmost care for quality and attention to detail have since its inception been fundamental elements for Jacob Cohën, so that it can be defined as the first luxury label in the denim sector,” said Jennifer Tommasi Bardelle, president of Jacob Cohën Company SpA.

In fiscal 2022, Jacob Cohën generated a revenue €71 million, but the company recently told FashionNetwork.com that it is set to exceed €80 million in 2023, and is also planning to open several new stores. The label currently operates four stores directly, in Milan, Paris, Saint-Tropez and Courchevel, while 10 other stores are managed with partners, in Geneva, Moscow, Tokyo (in the Roppongi and Ginza districts), Osaka, Oslo, Taormina, Puerto Banus, Prague, and Knokke Le Zoute.

These monobrand stores account for 10% of the label’s revenue, the remaining 90% coming from the wholesale channel. Jacob Cohën is available at leading department stores like Harrods, La Rinascente, Le Bon Marché, KaDeWe, De Bijenkorf, Shinsegae, NK, Isetan, Tsum, El Corte Inglés, Neiman Marcus, Harry Rosen, The Collective and Vakko.

Menswear accounts for 82% of the label’s revenue, and womenswear for 18%, while 81% of revenue is generated outside Italy, and 19% in Italy. The label's main markets are Italy, Germany, the Netherlands, and France, though the label told FashionNetwork.com that the US market is becomingly increasingly important. The results of the Spring/Summer 2024 commercial campaign were 15% higher than the previous season’s. In terms of e-tail, the main market is Italy, followed by Germany and the USA.